Lure, on the roof of the world.
The Montagne de Lure: a geological, literary and cultural symbol of Provence.
For me, the Montagne de Lure in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence is much more than just a mountain range. More discreet than its neighbor, the Luberon or the Ventoux, it is a point of convergence between nature, literature, photography and the almost untouched heritage of Provence. Dominating the region with its imposing presence, it is not only a geographical and geological wonder, but also a place steeped in human, artistic and religious history.
A fascinating geography.
The Montagne de Lure stretches for some 42 kilometers, between the valleys of the Durance to the south and the Jabron to the north. It is part of the Préalpes de Digne massif, and reaches an altitude of 1,826 meters at Signal de Lure. The summit offers exceptional panoramic views, blending the landscapes of the Alps and Provence.
The climatic and ecological diversity of the Montagne de Lure is remarkable. The southern slopes enjoy a Mediterranean climate, with typical garrigue vegetation: wild lavender, holm oak and thyme. The cooler, wetter northern slope is covered with forests of beech, fir and black pine. These contrasts provide an ideal habitat for a variety of biodiversity, including deer, golden eagles and roe deer. As a child, I walked most of the paths here, following in the footsteps of Jean Giono, hoping to find inspiration for photography.
A singular geology and a source of inspiration for writers.
The Montagne de Lure has a fascinating geological history stretching back millions of years. Composed mainly of limestone and marl dating from the Jurassic and Cretaceous periods, it is part of a karstic system that has shaped impressive landscapes such as the Canyon des Gorges d’Oppedette, which is on a par with the Grand Canyon du Verdon. Rainwater infiltrates the rock, carving out caves, underground springs and chasms. Scree slopes, steep cliffs and grassy plateaus are the remnants of these transformations. This geological wealth has also influenced human activity. Livestock farming, forestry and lavender cultivation on the limestone plateaus bear witness to ancestral adaptation to the landscape and climate.
The Montagne de Lure has not only left its mark on geographers and naturalists, it has also left an indelible imprint on French literature, notably through authors such as Jean Giono and Pierre Magnan. The main characteristic of Haute Provence is its intense drought and stony soil, which, until the Canal de Provence was built for irrigation, prohibited almost all crops except lavender and wheat. This arid, hot climate is well captured in Pagnol’s films such as Manon des Sources, and perfectly described in the works of Jean Giono and Pierre Magnan. It is undoubtedly this harsh climate that forged the strong characters these two writers so vividly describe.
Jean Giono, a native of Manosque, found the Montagne de Lure an infinite source of inspiration. His works, imbued with a deep love of nature and rural life, often transpose the soul of this region into his stories. Le Contadour, a small hamlet on the slopes of Lure, is particularly associated with Giono. In the 1930s, he organized philosophical and literary gatherings here, bringing together friends and intellectuals to discuss the links between man and nature. It became a sanctuary for his pacifist and humanist reflections.
Pierre Magnan, for his part, has explored the daily lives of the region’s inhabitants with a style of writing that blends poetry and realism. His crime novels often evoke the rugged beauty of the Lure mountains, which become almost a character in their own right in his stories.
The Montagne de Lure as a source of inspiration for photographers.
In addition to writers, the Montagne de Lure has also attracted renowned photographers. Henri Cartier-Bresson, a master of humanist photography, found it an ideal terrain for exploration. Fascinated by the light and landscapes of Provence, he captured everyday village life and the natural splendor of the mountains with a unique sensitivity. The village of Simiane la Rotonde particularly inspired him, and it was in 1969 that he took this famous shot, through which we can see that not much has changed if we compare it with the current location. Henri Cartier Bresson also wished to be buried in the village of Montjustin.
Like many of the villages in this region, Vachères, Oppedette, Banon, Le Rocher d’Ongles, Le Contadour, Dauphin, etc…..Simiane la Rotonde were a strong source of inspiration for me in my early days, but also today. I visit them tirelessly, always under the impression that my photos will capture the ruggedness and originality of Haute Provence.
The villages that dot the mountain of Lure embody the Provencal soul of a bygone time where water was a precious good and when it came to lack, entire villages were displaced or completely abandoned as was the case of the village perched Montsalier. This village of 300 inhabitants in the sixteenth century still has traces of dwellings dating from the twelfth and thirteenth century with remains of one of the three mills. They were still in operation around the 1860s. Under Napoleon, the village had 27 houses, about forty buildings and thirteen rural buildings, with its public square, a Romanesque church, two large parallel streets and a whole network of small transversal alleys with its cemetery of course. It was abandoned at the beginning of the 20th century.
Lure, the roof of the world.
Almost at the top of Lure Mountain, the village of Contadour occupies a central place in the cultural history of Lure Mountain. In addition to his relationship with Jean Giono, he also served as the setting for Marcel Pagnol’s films.
The landscapes of Lure, with their raw authenticity, magnified masterpieces like The Baker’s Wife and inspired others like Cresus. Moreover, climbing the top of the mountain to reach the farm Fraches, we could see until recently, this abandoned car may be from the time of the filming of Pagnol films.
A Mountain with many facets.
Manosque (France) – December 2024
