Kathmandu, from dream to reality.
History and civilization.
Kathmandu’s rich history stretches back centuries, bearing witness to the fusion of diverse cultures and the spirituality that permeates every street and corner of this city of 1.5 million inhabitants. Kathmandu was founded in the 4th century BC by King Gunakamadeva, who established the city as a thriving center of commerce and culture. Kathmandu is ideally situated at an altitude of 1,500 metres between the high mountains of northern Nepal, symbolized by Mount Everest to the east, on the border with Tibet, and India to the south. Over the centuries, Kathmandu has become a commercial crossroads, attracting traders from different parts of Asia. The city prospered under various dynasties, contributing to its architectural and cultural heritage, but today Nepal, very much out of step with galloping globalism, focuses on tourism, the main source of foreign currency.
The first thing you notice when you arrive in Kathmandu, apart from the human bustle almost common to many Asian cities, are the temples, imbued with spirituality and a unique architectural aesthetic. Bodhnath, with its impressive stupa, was built in the 19th century by the descendants of Licchavi, but is also said to have been built by the Tibetan emperor Trisong Detsan. It is one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world, attracting pilgrims and admiring visitors from all provinces of Nepal, as well as from India and other neighboring countries.
Kwa Bahal (the Golden Temple) is a Hindu temple housing Kumari, the living goddess. Built in the early 12th century by King Bhaskar Verma, it was dedicated to the divine Buddha. Patan’s Golden Temple is also known by the complicated name of “Hiranya Varna Mahavihara” or, even more complicated, “Bhaskerdev Samskarit Hiranyabarna Mahavihar” in Sanskrit. The Kwa Bahal is a sumptuous sanctuary with facades decorated in gilded copper and silver. The statues and works of art represent Buddhist deities symbolized by swarms of birds rising into the sky from the roof tops. The ornamentation is complemented by elaborate wooden carvings on the door and on the temple balustrades, which feature countless artistic statues of monkeys, lions, dragons and deities.
Swayambhunath, built on a hill, is one of the valley’s oldest and most revered religious sites. A great sense of fervor envelops the site, particularly in the morning and evening when the shimmering lights of the setting sun lend a golden note to the entire edifice. This contemplative atmosphere is enhanced by the scent of incense and butter lamps. From the white dome to the golden spire, from the niches to the prayer flags, each element has a symbolic meaning. At the four cardinal points, the eyes of Buddha keep watch. Devotees circle the stupa in a clockwise direction, activating the prayer wheels as they fly away, contributing to the smooth running of the wheel of life.
The central Durbar Square.
In the heart of Kathmandu lies Durbar Square, a historic square surrounded by royal palaces, temples and ancient statues. It owes its name of Durbar (royal audience hall) to the court held here by the kings of Nepal until 1886. It is at the center of a complex of Hindu temples and royal palaces inherited from the Malla and Shah dynasties. It is a World Heritage site, along with two other Darbâr squares in Patan and Bhaktapur, near Kathmandu.
The beauty of Durbar Square lies in its unique blend of traditional Nepalese architecture. Every corner of this square transports visitors back to Nepal’s glorious past, with palaces that tell stories of kings and queens. When Kathmandu became independent under King Ratna Malla (1484-1520), the buildings were the royal residences of the Malla dynasty. The Shah dynasty continued to rule the square until 1896, when they moved to the Narayan Hiti palace. The square then remained the center of major royal events such as the coronation of King Birendra Bir Bikram Shah in 1975 and King Gyanendra Bir Bikram Shah in 2001.
Serenity at the Khawalung Tashi Choeling monastery.
On the outskirts of Kathmandu are numerous monasteries that play a central role in Nepalese spirituality, offering spaces for meditation and learning. Khawalung Tashi Choeling, perched in the surrounding hills, is one of the most revered monasteries. Here, monks practice ancient rituals, preserving the Buddhist tradition while welcoming visitors for an immersive experience of monastic life. Not far away, a major economic activity is the manufacture of hand-made silk paper from Daphne cannabina or Lokta from the mountainous regions of Nepal. It is renowned for its special texture and exceptional strength. The oldest manuscripts of Hindu and Buddhist religious texts, royal edicts and legislative texts were produced on this traditional handmade paper.
Although the monasteries make a major contribution to education, Kathmandu is under great pressure from the rigors of today’s economic conditions and mountain life. Many children are orphaned for a variety of reasons, including poverty, armed conflict and natural disasters. The city’s orphanages do their best to provide children with a loving home and educational opportunities. However, living conditions can be difficult, underlining the need to support these institutions and address the underlying causes of orphanhood. Poverty and political instability have led many families to be unable to provide for their children. Orphanages are often the only option for offering these youngsters a better life, although ongoing efforts are needed to tackle the roots of the problem. This aspect will be detailed in another report.
Beyond the vicissitudes of life, Kathmandu remains a city full of contrasts, where ancient history rubs shoulders with modernity, and spirituality transcends the bustling streets. While exploring its majestic temples, peaceful monasteries and central square, it’s essential to recognize the challenges faced by some of its most vulnerable inhabitants. By collaborating to support orphanages and committing ourselves to solving the underlying problems, we can help preserve and enhance the cultural and human richness of this exceptional Nepalese city.
Help for children and associations.
I went to Nepal with an idea in mind, which was to help the associations in charge of orphaned children as best I could. I was greeted by lovely people who struggle day by day to find funding to meet the children’s daily needs, starting with food and medicine and continuing with education and basic living facilities such as beds for each child. Articles dedicated to these orphanages are available in the Society section of the website by typing in Nepal in the search engine. Anyone interested in helping at any level can contact me directly or the associations listed below.
Mr Sanju Shakya of the INSPIRE NEPAL association(https://www.inspirenepal.com)
Mrs Salve Prado Shakya of QUEST VOLUNTEER ADVENTURES (http://questvolunteer.weebly.com/ )
Thank you for these children – Dhan’yavāda – धन्यवाद
Kathmandu (Nepal) – August 2014
